A Love Letter to Palermo: Poured in red and white
- Brijiena Lovelace
- Sep 13
- 5 min read
Updated: Sep 16
Sicily’s city of stories, where history is served with a side of hustle and a smile.
Like many 20-something-year-old women, the primal desire to drink wine first came along by trying to rid oneself of the girlish behaviour of drinking spirits.
I then worked for a reputable wine merchant in southwest London in my early twenties, further paving the way for my introduction to wine.
After my short tenure in the industry, I set out to do something I’d always wanted to do: become a writer.
Though it was only recently, in my early thirties, that the two worlds collided.
Palermo: History in the heart of Sicily
I’ve been to Italy before, spending a long weekend in Milan some years ago.
Recently, I was invited on a press trip to spend some time in Sicily.
P.S. It didn’t disappoint.
Hosted by Wines of Sicilia DOC, I was about to combine two passions of mine: words and wine.
The trip started in the city's capital, Palermo, located on the northwestern coast of the island, rich with Arab influence and a wanderlust-like charm; it's a must-visit for travel seekers.
Although quite sparsely populated inland, Palermo is a mountainous region, with a lot going on. Sicily is also home to the iconic Mount Etna, and full of rolling hills, glistening seafronts, and acres of vines as you venture out.
We stayed at the newly converted Palazzo Liberty Unique Hotel, which has been carefully restored to its original Art Nouveau style: a romantic work of art.
Originally the Palazzo Ammirata, and idealised according to the style of architect Francesco Paolo Rivas, this early 20th-century building is a nod to modern palatial architecture.
If you’re looking for somewhere to stay in the city, the Palazzo Liberty is at the heart of the action.
But that’s all of Palermo.
Every corner you turn tells a new story about the history, whether it’s the crumbling facades of buildings that have stood the test of time or the bustling streets full of native art, Sicilian prints, and delicious food spots serving the best eats the region has to offer.
Vines and Wines
Yes, back to the wine.
Having worked for a wine merchant back in my twenties, I was always under the impression that Italy was considered ‘Old World’ wine country.
While that is correct, Sicily, as a region, is actually considered relatively new in the world of quality wine, and this interesting dichotomy continued to intrigue me throughout my trip.
The role of Sicilia DOC is to elevate Sicily from a high-volume producing wine region to a region that pushes out quality produce, a reminder of the force that is to be reckoned with, if you will.
We were lucky enough to have two tasting sessions hosted by Filippo Bartolotta: a wine expert, phenomenal storyteller, and incredibly passionate teacher.
It was with Filippo that I first heard of the Nero d'Avola grape; not only is it perhaps one of the most important indigenous grape varieties to Sicily, alongside Grillo and Catarratto, but it also became my favourite to try for the remainder of my trip.
Celebrating family, history and culture
Next on the itinerary were the vineyard and winery visits.
I’ve outlined all of them individually below, along with my spotlight wine from each visit.
At the heart of this section, and the one thing all of the wineries had in common, was the overriding sentiment of family.
Historically, Sicilians are most known for their deep roots in agriculture. Grape harvesting, wine making and doing it all among the family is by no means new to this region
Most of the wine producers we met either continued the tradition from their family or worked alongside family in the industry - often times, both.
This isn’t a new concept; Sicilian wine makers are simply carrying on the traditions their families have practised for generations.
Now, with the help of organisations like Wines of Sicilia DOC, new-age winemakers are beginning to show the world the wine powerhouse Sicily is.
Feudo Disisa
We headed to the town of Monreale, a town in Palermo more than 300 meters above sea level, to visit Feudo Disisa. We met father and son winemakers Renato and Mario Di Lorenzo, whose family are originally from Britain and has owned Feudo Disisa for over a century.
We tasted Sicilian recipes, which included plenty of pasta and Parmesan, as well as olives, warm bread, and a selection of olive oils to drizzle over everything. Here, you’ll find hectares of grapevines and olive groves in a historically beautiful location.
*Spotlight wine: RENÈ Sparkling Wine | Grape variety - Chardonnay
Tola Winery
We then visited Tola Winery, located in Partinico, just under half an hour away from the sea-soaked Castellammare del Golfo, at an elevation of 400 meters above sea level. We met with Francesco, who, we weren’t surprised to hear, worked with much of his immediate family.
Tola Winery was a showstopper for me, thanks to its minimalist interiors that scream vineyard chic while still paying homage to its agricultural roots. We even got to see some of the last grapes of the season being harvested on site.
*Spotlight wine: Festa d'Agosto | Grape variety - Catarratto
Tonnino Winery
Last but not least, our final day led us to Alcamo, an entrepreneurial town in the province of Trapani, to visit Tonnino Winery. There, we met with Francesca at her family-operated winery, who, one step at a time, is adding a modern touch to some of the traditions implemented by her grandfather, Paolo.
Tonnino has a rich history, a stunning estate from an interiors perspective, and one of the most thoughtfully curated label designs I’ve ever seen. I loved the Nero d'Avola so much I brought a bottle back home. From the summer-appropriate courtyard to the cathedral-esque interiors, it should be on your visit list.
*Spotlight wine: Tonnino Nero d'Avola | Grape variety - Nero d'Avola
If ancient ruins and historical facts are your thing, Segesta should definitely be on your list. Featuring stunning panoramic views of worlds unknown, the frozen-in-time relic is a fifth-century unfinished temple and well worth the steep walk up.
The next time you decide on a European trip, I’d recommend Palermo in Sicily to start your journey. If the bustle of a busy city with the culture, chaos, and community to match excites you, there’s a lot to love here.
Thank you for reading.
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